Reviews of specific carving products by those who've used them.
Yes, it's a curious topic I know, & many thanks go to Stoney, who provided me with support when tackling a seemingly knackered drill.
Not much out there in terms of repair info, however if you can change the brushes, ...yes you can! then you are more than capable of opening the innards of your dremel & cleaning up / checking it's state of repair.
remember by opening it up you are probably invalidating your warranty, but's do or die!

Firstly have a look at this schematic.. THANKYOU STONEY! ... 15469.html

Keep it open in a separate window for referral.

The Drill: "dremel" 300

Fault : DROPPED DREMEL, it flew across the room when trying out a non dremel rip saw blade, ..USE BOTH HANDS to steady & grip it.

Problem: Upon allowing the dremel to cool (it hit the floor & skidded full pace) I thought it was knackered, as the motor was imbalanced when motor engaged.

Diagnosis & end result: The drop caused the centrifugal motor to turn out of sync, transferring vibration outward & shakiness as a result! BAD

Repair fault: ONE minute

Yes that's right the motor casing is set up from the speed controller board via 4 little equally spaced "pegs" male & female connectors..
ALIGN & PUSH gently, get close & check all the pins insert at the same time. THIS IS PART 4 IN THE SINGULAR EXPLODED SCHEMATIC, WHICH PUSHES INTO PART 802 (GENTLY BUT FIRMLY)


However lets go back a bit as theres some info that will make this easier.

from the beginning.
seperate from mains, unplug it.. we are not going to do this with current flowing, theres no need, your hands will be all over the simple components as you tease them back into place.

1. Use the spanner (other end) to open slowly the circular brush access one at a time.
Catch the spring, your brush (black) might come out on the spring , may not, so get ready to tip & catch!
repeat on ther brush.

2. Partly undo the 4 retaining screws which hold the body together.
3. Remove 1 at a time fully.
4. OPEN Top of body (speed control slider visible) partially from rear having taken the drill screw cap off or no movement whatsoever will occur!

5. Unclip hanger hook & undo the 2 retainer screws hoding the tiny circuit board in place.
6. watch out for a small semi circular spring clip & another piece lets call it the "stopper nub" from falling out ..basically it's the blue button stopper at the tip in two parts that seek the 2 holes to clamp the drill when you wish to change an accessory / drill bit.
7. IF required remove the rubber end cap (near the circuitry on a flywheel).

clean your dremel chassis with a wet wipe (not electricals, give the speed controller a blow out to remove dust etc.

Remove all components if you need to separate & re-seat there will be movement around the motor, this is good, & how it should be!
Reseat the drill tip, replace the rubber cap (by the circuitry) it should be snug, if it's hard you are doing it incorrectly, just pull everything out again,check movement & seating.

Re-assemble (a finger on the clip & stopper nub to keep them in place momentarily) ,
screws back together part way for all then tighten till resistance is felt.
set your speed controller (slider to off)
Re-insert brushes..they'll only go in one direction, no force needed.
Tighten with spanner.
Do not insert any accessories, we need to test it with no load on all speeds starting with LOW & increasing the speed if it appears back to normal smooth running without judders.
Plug in & turn on, ..should not have any more judders...

Carry on carving...

Amendment ..just found this dremel forum, not seen it before..
Last edited by GUS on Wed Sep 01, 2010 3:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By St0ney
Very Detailed Excellent Post Gus.

Maintenance is important to keep the tool working flawlessly.

Before each season.

1. I take the dremel apart and clean everything.
Use compressed Air to remove foam dust.

2. I take the spring out of the flex shaft and clean it / re-lube it.
with a drop of 3&1 Oil.

3. Most Important - I then Change the carbon Brushes.

I've had the same dremel for many years, and it runs like it did from day One.

One thing I highly recommend for everyone that does a lot of carving, is to buy a Foot Switch.


You Plug the Dremel into the switch, then Plug the switch In.
Turn the dremel on, the dremel will now only run when you place your foot on the switch, Works Great.

I already had the foot switches when I had a Stained Glass Shop.
Had them hooked up to the glass grinders.

This is where I bought Mine.
(it's a stained glass supply house)
Thanks Stoney.
The foot pedal is not available in the uk (**** :cry: ) & questionable cost due to requiring a step transformer in all likelihood to handle variances in load, rather than a simple travel plug, motor & differing draw as you vary the revs.. on our 230-240v supply.
I'm tempted to do a short you-tube clip for no other reason than I don't like to struggle & after reading it's still a bit boggling to those who've never done it.
we'll see.. but hopefully, "by the power of greyskull", sorry the internet, my vague description will help another tormented Dremel soul..
User avatar
By CombichristGirl
very very good thing to know!!!! thank you gus and stoney!!!
this will im sure no doubt come in handy